Travel Stories
Planning
An Izakaya Reimagined in Venice California
RVR, a restaurant in Venice, California, now occupies the former space of MTN, an experimental izakaya that closed in early 2020. The new iteration, RVR, is designed to feel like a refreshed version of a familiar favorite, rather than a direct repetition. It aims to offer a surprisingly good dining experience, with a strong emphasis on creative vegetable dishes, a hallmark of the culinary approach of its chef-owner. The location on Abbot Kinney Boulevard places it within a well-known retail area.
The dining room at RVR blends a modern aesthetic with natural light, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere ideal for exploring a menu focused on inventive, produce-forward Japanese-inspired cuisine.
A New Chapter for an Old Space
The building itself retains its distinctive modernist exterior, reminiscent of grainy wood. Inside, however, the space has been updated with lighter walls and a ceiling that allows for soft, filtered sunshine during the day and a dim, candlelit ambiance in the evening. This recalibrated environment is intended to feel more grounded and approachable than its predecessor. The culinary vision continues to be driven by a commitment to seasonality and global flavors, a style that previously defined the chef-owner’s earlier ventures in creating a modern definition of California cuisine.
The restaurant’s past included a focus on being an experimental izakaya that opened in 2017. This earlier establishment was known for its trendy atmosphere, attracting a crowd interested in the latest dining trends. The food itself was notable for its ability to stand out amidst the busy environment, with dishes remembered for their distinct flavors and textures. Specific dishes that made an impression included Japanese sweet potatoes with miso butter and scallions, and a ramen variation with a remarkably sweet clam broth.
Focus on Produce and Global Flavors
RVR’s approach to dining is not strictly traditional Japanese izakaya. Instead, it emphasizes the quality and artistry of its ingredients, particularly vegetables, drawing inspiration from the region’s produce. Small plates include items like chicken thigh karaage with chile honey, shrimp dumplings, roasted black cod, and grilled kanpachi collar, with prices generally ranging from $15 to $35.
The kitchen’s strength lies in its skillful preparation of seasonal vegetables. Current offerings might include grilled Costata Romanesco zucchini, nectarine and purple daikon, or peeled tomatoes prepared with purple sweet potato vinegar. The chefs demonstrate a knack for highlighting the natural flavors of produce, often incorporating influences from Japanese cuisine with a contemporary California sensibility.
This dedication to plant-centered cooking is supported by a team that includes an executive chef with prior experience in specializing in regional Japanese dishes. Chefs who have worked with the chef-owner for years are also part of the culinary team, bringing a sense of continuity and shared vision. This cohesive group works to bring out vibrant flavors from the ingredients, even during cooler months, by layering complementary textures and tastes.
During the summer season, the menu might feature floral apricots in a sunomono dish, complemented by a vinegar-based dressing and aromatic accents. Tiny tomatoes are prepared with a unique sweet potato vinegar from Japan, enhanced by salt and olive oil. Grilled Costata Romanesco zucchini is seasoned with a blend that hints at Japanese curry and served with a citrusy curry leaf aioli, finished with a flavorful furikake.
Few menus in Los Angeles consistently place produce at the forefront of their offerings throughout the year. RVR’s chefs are noted for their technical skill and creative thinking, producing some of the city’s most inspired plant-focused dishes. Vegetables form the largest and most engaging part of the menu, though other enticing options are available.
Hand rolls are a popular choice, with variations such as kanpachi with avocado, yuzu kosho, and shiso, or rock cod tempura served with tartar sauce and daikon radish sprouts, showcasing a distinct Californian ingenuity. Other recommended dishes include duck meatball tsukune, known for its fluffy yet dense texture and served with hot mustard. Monterey Bay squid, prepared with a smoky-sweet flavor, is paired with a rotating selection of herbs and acidic elements. Pan-fried pork and cabbage gyoza are notable for their crisp, lacy skirt. Among the ramen selections, one option features springy noodles with Dungeness crab and corn in a rich broth.
Dinner is served Monday to Saturday from 5 PM to 11 PM, and Sunday from 5 PM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch is available Saturday and Sunday from 11 AM to 2 PM.
Beverage Program
The drinking component of the izakaya experience is considered crucial at RVR. The cocktail menu includes options like fresh-fruit shochu highballs, plum-accented negronis, and freezer martinis. Suntory premium malt beer is available on tap. The selection of sake by the glass covers six different styles, alongside a variety of hot or iced Japanese teas and a house-made cherry-vanilla soda.
The wine program, curated by the wine director, often features off-dry Rieslings and slightly oxidized white wines from less common regions of France. Enthusiasts can expect detailed discussions about the wine selection, with bottles brought to the table for review.
The way the kitchen centers the region’s finest produce truly makes the ingredients sing, showcasing a profound connection to the locality.
Planning a Visit
Securing prime-time dinner reservations at RVR can be challenging, even nearly ten months after its opening. The restaurant has also introduced weekend brunch service.
The brunch menu offers dishes such as a rolled omelet and a large black sesame pancake, often served with seasonal vegetables like sugar snap peas. As with dinner, brunch reservations are advisable, especially if requesting a spot on the rooftop patio, which opened during warmer weather.
This establishment could be a strong contender for an initial dining experience for visitors seeking a taste of the local scene upon arrival in the area. The variety of dishes, from creative vegetable plates to comforting ramen and flavorful hand rolls, caters to a range of preferences, while the beverage program complements the food with thoughtful pairings.
Planning meals for a family can sometimes feel like a puzzle, especially when trying to find places that impress both adults and younger children. I’m looking into places like RVR that seem to offer exciting flavors that might appeal to Sofia, who is developing a more adventurous palate, and hopefully Emma would enjoy some of the simpler options.
Hand rolls are priced from $8 to $25, dumplings from $15 to $20, and vegetable dishes from $15 to $22. Most other meat and seafood dishes range from $9 to $35. Details are subject to change and should be verified.
1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, California. Street parking is available.
Dinner: Monday–Saturday 5 PM–11 PM, Sunday 5 PM–10 PM. Brunch: Saturday–Sunday 11 AM–2 PM. Full bar and extensive nonalcoholic options are available.
- Research the current seasonal vegetable dishes available on the menu.
- Consider making dinner reservations at least a week in advance.
- For brunch, booking a week out is recommended, especially for rooftop seating.
- Prepare for street parking in the Venice area, which can be challenging.
- Verify current operating hours for both dinner and brunch services.
Exploring dining options in Los Angeles offers a journey through diverse culinary landscapes. RVR presents a compelling example of how familiar concepts can be revitalized with a focus on quality ingredients and creative execution, making it a noteworthy destination for those interested in contemporary Californian cuisine with Japanese influences.
