Exploring Upper Manhattan’s Historic Edge
I’ve been digging into the history of New York City, and I discovered a fascinating part of Manhattan that often gets overlooked: the areas above 155th Street, known as Washington Heights and Inwood. It’s a place where the typical city grid gives way to a more rugged landscape, and this terrain has preserved nearly 400 years of the city’s history in some really unique spots. I’m really excited to share some of these discoveries with you as you plan your own adventures in the city.
A Cemetery Divided by Progress
One of the most striking historical sites I found is Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum. This place tells a story of how even a peaceful resting ground can be dramatically altered by the city’s growth. Originally established in 1842 to accommodate Manhattan’s expanding population, it was situated quite far north at the time, on land once owned by naturalist John James Audubon. It was meant to be a serene place for reflection.
However, the relentless march of urban development in 1871 led to Broadway being cut right through the cemetery. This monumental undertaking literally split the tranquil burial ground in two. Imagine the impact, not just on the landscape but also on the sanctity of the place, with dozens of bodies needing to be disinterred. It’s a powerful reminder of the physical changes cities undergo.
Within its grounds, you’ll find the final resting places of some notable figures. These include Eliza Jumel, a woman known for her scandalous life and lavish estate; John Jacob Astor, a prominent businessman and philanthropist; former New York City Mayor Ed Koch; and Clement Clarke Moore, the poet credited with writing “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” often called “‘Twas the Night Before Christmas.” It’s quite a mix of personalities from different eras.
Good to Know: When visiting cemeteries, remember to be respectful of the grounds and the people interred there. It’s a place of remembrance and history.
Audubon Terrace A Cultural Oasis
Just a short distance away, I learned about Audubon Terrace. This area feels like a step back in time, featuring elegant Beaux-Arts buildings surrounding a beautiful sculpture garden. The atmosphere here is quite refined, almost like being within the esteemed halls of the Metropolitan Museum of Art or the Frick Collection. Its secluded location is a major part of its charm, making it feel like a hidden oasis.
The land here was once part of the twenty acres owned by John James Audubon, who was deeply passionate about nature. After his death in 1851, the estate was divided, leading to the creation of Audubon Park, a neighborhood known for its tree-lined streets. Philanthropist Archer Milton Huntington played a significant role in developing this area, establishing cultural institutions like the Hispanic Society of America and the original Museum of the American Indian, which has since moved to a larger space downtown.
Today, Audubon Terrace continues to be a hub for culture and learning. Boriqua College also has a presence here, contributing to the area’s educational landscape. It’s a place where art, history, and education converge, offering a peaceful retreat from the city’s usual hustle and bustle.
The Echoes of the Polo Grounds
For sports enthusiasts, the site of the former Polo Grounds stadium, located at West 155th Street, holds a special significance. This legendary venue, active from 1890 to 1964, was once home to three major baseball teams: the New York Yankees, the New York Mets, and the New York Giants. It also served as the initial home for the New York Jets football team.
While the stadium itself is gone, a remarkable vestige remains: a staircase that connects the lower-lying eastern side of the area with the elevated Coogan’s Bluff. These stairs were originally built in 1913 to provide easy access between public transportation on the bluff and the stadium below. It’s easy to picture fans, perhaps with limited funds, gathering on these very steps to catch glimpses of the games unfolding. The stairs are named in honor of John T. Brush, who owned the Giants for many years.
💡 Quick Tips
- Wear comfortable shoes for climbing stairs and exploring hilly areas.
- Check local event listings for any activities near the Polo Grounds site.
- Consider visiting during daylight hours for the best experience and safety.
555 Edgecombe Avenue: A Historic Residence
The apartment building at 555 Edgecombe Avenue is more than just a place to live; it’s a building steeped in history, particularly for its association with prominent African-Americans who resided there starting in the 1930s. Residents have long enjoyed stunning views of the Harlem River from this mid-1910s building.
The list of notable past residents is truly impressive, including boxing legend Joe Louis, renowned jazz musician Count Basie, and the multi-talented actor, singer, and activist Paul Robeson. It was the presence of Paul Robeson, a true icon of film and the civil rights movement, that led to the building being designated a National Historic Landmark. It stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the neighborhood.
My daughter Emma, who is six, loves learning about people who made a difference, and the stories from 555 Edgecombe Avenue are perfect for sparking her imagination about how individuals can leave a lasting legacy. It reminds me of how important it is to share these historical narratives with children.
Morris-Jumel Mansion: A Glimpse into Colonial Life
Built in 1765, the Morris-Jumel Mansion is a true architectural treasure, holding the distinction of being the oldest surviving house in New York City. It was originally the home of Roger Morris, a Loyalist who strategically departed New York during the Revolutionary War. The house itself offers a fascinating look into colonial living.
However, the mansion’s history is also intertwined with the colorful and scandalous life of Eliza Jumel. She was a prominent figure in early 19th-century New York society, notable for marrying former Vice President Aaron Burr. Their marriage, however, ended in a swift divorce, largely due to Burr’s mismanagement of her considerable estate. By the time of her death in 1865, she was widely regarded as one of the city’s most notorious women. Some say her spirit still wanders the historic halls, which now function as a museum.
💡 Quick Tips
- Check the museum’s website for current tour schedules and special events.
- Allow ample time to explore the mansion and its gardens.
- Consider the historical context to fully appreciate the stories associated with the house.
Sylvan Terrace: A Picturesque Street
Sylvan Terrace offers a charming and slightly whimsical contrast to the surrounding urban environment. This narrow street, paved with Belgian blocks, is lined with a row of curious wooden houses that resemble Victorian-era dollhouses. They were constructed in 1882, built along what was once the carriage trail leading to the Jumel Mansion.
The houses are notable for their steep staircases that rise directly from the street, giving them an almost theatrical appearance. Despite their somewhat grand presentation, these homes were originally built to accommodate working-class families. Walking down Sylvan Terrace is like stepping onto a movie set, offering a unique visual experience in Upper Manhattan.
The Audubon Ballroom and Malcolm X’s Legacy
Another building with a rich and varied history is the Audubon Ballroom, originally designed by Thomas Lamb in 1912 as a movie palace. Its exterior, decorated with colorful terra-cotta and featuring fox motifs, was a whimsical tribute to its initial client, William Fox, founder of the Fox Film Corporation. Over the years, the building served many purposes; by the 1930s, its basement housed a synagogue, while upstairs, impassioned labor rallies took place.
Tragically, this building became the site of a pivotal moment in American history on February 21, 1965, when Malcolm X was assassinated here. This somber event is etched into the building’s past. Today, the lobby of this historically significant structure is home to the Malcolm X and Dr. Betty Shabazz Memorial and Educational Center, serving as a vital space for remembrance and education.
When I look at places like the Audubon Ballroom, I think about how buildings can witness so many different chapters of history unfold. It’s a powerful reminder that our surroundings hold stories if we take the time to look and listen. My daughter Sofia, who is a teenager, finds these moments of historical connection particularly impactful.
Michel Square Park and a Mayor’s Honor
Michel Square Park, a small triangular park, is located amidst a cluster of medical buildings, most notably associated with NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital. This park is dedicated to John Purroy Mitchel, affectionately known as ‘The Boy Mayor’ of New York. He served as mayor from 1914 to 1917.
After his term as mayor, Mitchel joined the service to fight in World War I. Sadly, he died during a training exercise in Louisiana on July 6, 1918. The park was named in his honor just a month later. In 1923, the park received an interesting war memorial sculpted by Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. Whitney would later go on to found her own significant art institution, the Whitney Museum of American Art, based on her extensive art collection.
The Fort Washington Avenue Armory
Manhattan was once dotted with armories, structures built to store military equipment and sometimes house troops. The Fort Washington Avenue Armory, named after a Revolutionary War fort that once stood in the area, was constructed in 1911. It initially served as home to a regiment of the Army Corps of Engineers.
Today, this imposing building is more widely recognized for its role in the world of athletics, particularly track and field. The Armory Track is considered one of the most important venues in the United States for the sport, hosting numerous events throughout the year. The National Track and Field Hall of Fame also shares space within its walls, celebrating the achievements of athletes.
Good to Know: The Armory Track is a significant site for competitive athletics and often hosts high school and collegiate championships.
Coogan’s A Neighborhood Institution
Coogan’s is often described as the “Cheers” of Washington Heights, or perhaps more fittingly, as their website suggests, the neighborhood’s equivalent of Rick’s Place in the classic film “Casablanca.” Since opening its doors in 1985, this vibrantly decorated pub has been a welcoming spot for a diverse clientele, including visiting dignitaries and numerous celebrities.
When Coogan’s faced the possibility of closing in 2018, a significant effort was made by its patrons to save it. Notably, regular customer Lin-Manuel Miranda, the creator of the musical “Hamilton,” stepped in to help ensure the beloved establishment could remain open. It’s a testament to the strong community connection this place fosters.
The High Bridge: A Romanesque Waterway
The High Bridge stands as an impressive monument to engineering and function, a Romanesque structure that gracefully spans the Harlem River, connecting Manhattan to the Bronx. For many decades, this majestic artifact was a crucial component of a remarkable engineering feat: the Croton Aqueduct system. This aqueduct was vital for supplying freshwater to New York City.
Completed in 1848, the High Bridge was not only instrumental in bringing water into the city but also served as a visible symbol of the city’s progress and innovation on the world stage. In 1872, as the city grappled with accommodating masses of new arrivals, an attractive water tower was built near the bridge to help boost water pressure. Though the water system it served is no longer active, the bridge itself remains a stunning pedestrian walkway, offering beautiful views over the Harlem River.
Is The High Bridge accessible for everyone?
Yes, the High Bridge is designed to be accessible to pedestrians. It offers a unique experience for walking and enjoying the scenery.
It’s a place where you can appreciate both the historical significance and the sheer beauty of the structure, imagining the city it once served.
United Palace and El Malecón
Just a short distance from the Audubon Ballroom is another architectural gem designed by Thomas Lamb: the United Palace, formerly known as the Loew’s 175th Street Theatre. This was one of New York City’s original ‘Wonder Theatres,’ designed to elevate the movie-going experience into one of unparalleled luxury.
The theatre took a decidedly different direction in 1969 when television preacher Reverend Ike transformed it into the Palace Cathedral. While it still maintains religious ties, the venue is now frequently opened for concerts, film revivals, and guided tours, offering a chance to experience its grandeur.
Across the street, you can find El Malecón, a restaurant that has been serving Dominican cuisine for over thirty years. It is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the neighborhood, known for its authentic flavors and welcoming atmosphere.
The Little Red Lighthouse by the George Washington Bridge
Dwarfed by the immense scale of the George Washington Bridge, the Little Red Lighthouse (officially Jeffrey’s Hook Light) stands below, a quiet sentinel by the Hudson River. When it was placed here in 1921, it was Manhattan’s only operational lighthouse.
However, its purpose was quickly made obsolete by the opening of the massive bridge in 1931. The bridge’s powerful lights shone brightly, effectively guiding vessels along the Hudson. Fortunately for the lighthouse, it found a new life when it became the subject of a beloved 1942 children’s book, “The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge” by Hildegarde Swift. This story resonated with many, and the lighthouse was saved from demolition, remaining a charming landmark today.
💡 Quick Tips
- The lighthouse is located in Fort Washington Park, offering scenic views.
- The surrounding park is great for a walk or picnic.
- Check for any public accessibility to the lighthouse itself before visiting.
Bennett Park: Manhattan’s Highest Point
Bennett Park marks the highest natural elevation on Manhattan Island. This strategic location was once the site of Fort Washington, a significant fort during the Revolutionary War. While no remnants of the fort remain, the area is now Bennett Park, named after newspaper publisher James Gordon Bennett, Sr., who owned the land at the time of his death in 1872.
A decorative cannon in the park serves as a reminder of November 16, 1776, the day the fort fell to British forces. Nearby, an American elm tree was planted in 1932 to commemorate the bicentennial of George Washington’s birth, adding another layer of historical significance to this elevated spot.
St. Frances X. Cabrini Shrine
For those interested in religious history and relics, the St. Frances Xavier Cabrini Shrine offers a unique destination. In 1899, Mother Frances Cabrini, known for founding numerous hospitals and orphanages across the United States, purchased property on Fort Washington Avenue. She established a high school here, and after her death in 1917, her remains were kept in the school’s chapel.
Following her canonization in 1946, larger quarters were needed to accommodate visitors, leading to the construction of this shrine, which was completed in 1959. Today, visitors can see Mother Cabrini in a glass coffin beneath the altar. Her birthday, July 13th, is considered a special time to visit.
Fort Tryon Park A Romantic Landscape
Fort Tryon Park is a truly stunning public space, not only home to the renowned Cloisters museum but also one of Manhattan’s most romantic and lush parks. It provides dramatic overlooks of the Hudson River and sweeping views of the Palisades across the water. The park’s name refers to Sir William Tryon, a colonial governor known for his role in leading British forces during the Revolutionary War.
Wandering through the park’s winding paths, you’ll discover various historical markers, including a bronze plaque dedicated to Margaret Corbin. She is recognized as one of the first women to actively participate in battle during the Revolutionary War and was the first woman to receive a military pension after the war. The park itself offers a serene escape with its beautiful natural scenery and historical echoes.
Good to Know: Fort Tryon Park is spread across rugged terrain, so wear comfortable walking shoes.
The Met Cloisters A Medieval Marvel
The Met Cloisters, an offshoot of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is dedicated to the art and architecture of medieval Europe. It houses an exceptional collection of medieval paintings, reliquaries, tapestries, and tombs. The museum itself is as remarkable as its contents, with its structure, including walls, corridors, and apses, painstakingly reconstructed from five European abbeys and cloisters.
Some parts of The Cloisters are among the oldest structures in the United States, though they were not originally built here. They were transported stone by stone in an ambitious project, a passion project likely pursued by one of New York’s wealthiest individuals. For a deeper dive into its history, I found resources discussing the construction of The Cloisters and Fort Tryon Park to be very informative.
Can children enjoy The Cloisters?
Yes, children can find The Cloisters engaging, especially with its unique architecture and the stories of knights and castles often associated with the medieval period. It’s a great way to introduce them to art history in a hands-on way.
Exploring these grounds feels like stepping into another time, away from the usual pace of the city.
Dyckman Farmhouse Museum and Hessian Hut
Not all surviving Colonial-era homes in New York are grand mansions. The Dyckman Farmhouse, built in 1784, has a more modest appearance and wouldn’t seem entirely out of place in a rural setting. Today, however, it is surrounded by apartment buildings and bustling city traffic on Broadway.
Two distinctive features set it apart: it boasts a backyard with blooming flowers, and within that backyard lies a reconstructed Hessian barracks, or hut. This excavated hut, thrillingly rebuilt in 1916 when the farmhouse became a museum, actually predates the main house itself. The museum also hosts exhibitions, including one that commemorates the Inwood Slave Burial Ground, creating a dialogue between art and historical research.
Isham Park’s Revolutionary Roots
Isham Park is an exceptionally peaceful spot with deep connections to the Revolutionary War. In the early 20th century, this rugged landscape was dotted with the summer homes of wealthy New Yorkers. Banker William Bradley Isham, for whom the park is named, built his summer residence on what is now this parkland.
Remarkably, the Isham mansion and several surrounding structures were actually incorporated into the park when it opened in the 1910s. However, Parks Commissioner Robert Moses later oversaw the demolition of these buildings in the 1940s, leaving the park to revert to a more natural state.
💡 Quick Tips
- Isham Park is a great place for a quiet walk away from city noise.
- Look for historical markers within the park that tell its story.
- It’s a good spot for younger children to safely explore open green spaces.
Inwood Hill Park and Shorakkopoch Rock
Inwood Hill Park is perhaps one of New York City’s most underappreciated treasures. It’s a series of breathtaking natural landscapes that truly bring Manhattan back to its “Mannahatta” roots, with wild woods, lush foliage, and waterfront areas. Established as a park in 1916, its natural forests feel as though they have remained untouched by European settlement.
It’s here, near an old tulip tree, that the historical event of Peter Minuit purchasing the island from the Lenape people for 60 guilders reportedly took place in 1626. Today, you can find the approximate location of that ancient tulip tree near a large boulder known as Shorakkopoch Rock. The park offers a rare glimpse into the island’s pre-colonial natural state, with its rugged terrain and tranquil waters.
Are there any easy trails in Inwood Hill Park?
While the park is rugged, some trails are more accessible than others. It’s wise to research specific paths beforehand, especially if you have young children or limited mobility.
Exploring Inwood Hill Park allows you to connect with a more ancient aspect of New York City’s history and landscape.
As I continue to discover these layers of New York City’s past, I’m always struck by how much history is woven into the fabric of neighborhoods that might not be on every tourist’s immediate radar. It’s about finding those places that tell a unique story, and Upper Manhattan certainly has plenty of them.
